Tuesday, June 14, 2016

Roots

We hope that everyone will come down to Pathfinder Produce this week, Thursday, June 16, from 1 to 5 p.m., for our next delicious and well-stocked market.  Our Pathfinder Produce Hoop House “home grown” items are now available, and we offer a wide selection of other fresh items, just brimming with flavor and nutrition.  Try to add some fruit and veggie splash to your Father’s Day fun!

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Recently, my co-worker Martha and I were discussing the recent re-make of the mini-series “Roots” and how it compared to the ABC-TV blockbuster series from 1977, which both elevated LeVar Burton to stardom and created huge interest in family history research. Afterwards, I found my copy of the novel, and now I am tearing through it.  It’s well worth a revisit and offers some great comparative agricultural and food history.

In the early chapters of the book, Author Alex Haley intertwines the farming practices that were prevalent in the pre-European conquest era of West Africa into the narrative:  The story offers insight into land usage and ownership, the seasonality of food, the division of labor, and illustrates how humans both adapted to and manipulated their environments.  Gambian River Basin crops mentioned include rice, which the village women grew in marshy lands; couscous, a product made with semolina wheat that was another staple crop; groundnuts, which I believe are the same or similar to our peanuts, and yams, which are a distinct species from our sweet potatoes, which are Central American in origin.  Corn, another product out of the Americas, is mentioned briefly, but it wasn’t an important food until later; non-fictional sources indicate that it became an important crop in Africa after the mid-19th century.

The “Roots” tale then segues into Colonial American agriculture, as the young protagonist is brutally enslaved at about the time of the War of Independence.  The southern plantation system was firmly entrenched by that time in Virginia, the Carolinas, and the other southern colonies.  Tobacco and cotton, rice and indigo were commercially grown, and were labor and land-intensive. Tobacco and cotton were planted in large fields, wore the land out quickly, and made it necessary to clear new fields in a never-ceasing cycle that encroached on Native lands and further entrenched slavery.  This brief essay by History Professor Timothy Silver from the website of the National Humanities Center further discusses how three main cultures -- African, English and Native – intersected in the South during this era and impacted the landscape through agricultural activities.

Today’s interest in southern style cooking is revealing its roots in slave cookery, and offers glimpses of how staples – like rice (Oryza glaberrima) -- migrated from Africa to the American South.  More and more upscale restaurants and food historians are re-discovering these cultural ties.  According to the website of membership-based non-profit Southern Foodways Alliance, “African traditions have had the most impact on the flavors and the methods of Southern cookery.”  I also think this resurgence is woven into the current real food and slow food movements, through which ordinary folks celebrate pure, non-processed ingredients and home preparation over commercial processing.

So until next time, savor the stories of the foods you eat, and maybe even trace back some of your favorites’ historical roots.  You just never know what tales there are in the larder!


Lori